A guide to the safe use of the anchor recovery method using a buoy.
The modern method of anchor recovery used by an ever-increasing number of
dinghies and charter boats is with the aid of a buoy.
The size of the buoy is selected to provide sufficient buoyancy to float the anchor and chain and will probably be in the 20-24 inch diameter range.
The buoy is attached (usually by splicing) to a 3ft length of 10 - 12 mm rope and is then clipped using a snap shackle to a large diameter ring that slides on the anchor warp.
The clip is used to attach the buoy to the ring and it is recommended to keep it attached at all times.
When the anchor is lowered, the warp is allowed to slide through the ring, which is temporarily retained in the boat.
When the anchor reaches the sea-bed and the warp starts to pay out, the buoy is put over the side.
(nb some skippers prefer to put the buoy over the side before the anchor touches the bottom).
When sufficient warp is out, it is cleated-off and the buoy then slides on the warp via the ring.
The buoy will remain close to the bow of the boat by tide action and will be out of view.
To counter this and also to show clearly that the boat is at anchor, a stop is used.
Prior to cleating-off, the stop is attached to the warp (between the boat and the ring) to govern the position of the ring on the warp.
By releasing additional warp (approx 30ft) and then cleating-off, the buoy will float a distance (30ft) in front of the boat.
Tip take a compass bearing as the boat lays in the tide this will provide a reference direction to steer when motoring uptide.
To recover the anchor, the boat is steered forward at an approximately 30 degree angle to the warp to provide a safety clearance for the boat and warp.
As the buoy clears the stern, the warp is taken inside a stern cleat by the crew. (This step of the operation is not always done but it is probably safer to do it
as it keeps the warp under control off the back of the boat.)
Warning - Under no circumstances secure the warp to the stern cleat as this is potentially dangerous anchor load MUST always be taken on the bow.
By motoring uptide (or in the direction of the anchor if there is no tide), the angle of pull releases the anchor and the warp flows through the ring.
Eventually the chain passes through the ring leaving the anchor and chain suspended by the ring and supported on the surface by the buoy.
(Note that the chain needs to be heavier than the anchor to counter the anchor's weight.)
The manoeuvre is completed by the crew pulling the warp back into the boat, with just the weight of the floating gear to contend with.
The recovery of the gear can either be from the bow or midships. The latter is easier and preferable and ideal for boats with no safe access
to the foredeck, eg cabin boats with no forehatch.
Tip if you are planning to anchor in the same depth of water next time, the stop can be left in position ready for the next anchoring.
It is obviously necessary to take great care when manoeuvring to ensure that the warp is kept clear of the keel and propeller at all times. With sensible care this method
of recovery is safe, reliable and far less strenuous.
Tip by carefully observing the buoy during the manoeuvre it is easy to ascertain what is happening below.
a) Initially the buoy will bob steadily rearwards as rope comes through the ring
b) As the buoy starts to work and release the anchors grip by providing a vertical pull, the buoy can be seen to dig in the surface slightly.
c) When the anchor comes free of the seabed, the buoy can be seen to bob freely to the surface and bob gently as more rope comes through.
d) Finally when the chain comes through the ring the buoy can be seen to be dragging along the surface time to throttle back, turn broadside to the warp and recover the gear.
Warning if the anchor is stuck fast in say a wreck or obstruction, when tension builds up in the warp, providing the anchor is suitably tripped it will hopefully come clear.
However if it remains fast, then considerable tension will build up in the warp and this can lead to a dangerous situation. It is easy to recognise this as the engine will be heard and felt to labour.
It is paramount if this happens that the engine is gently throttled back to release this tension. If the engine power is reduced rapidly there is danger of the bow snatching rearwards alarmingly.
Suitable buoys can be purchased from chandlers at about £35. To ensure that the chain passes easily through the ring, it needs to be of sufficient diameter (approximately 6 inches is ideal).
These stainless steel rings and stops are a best seller and available from stock at £10 each.
Complete anchor recovery kits (including suitable buoy, ring, stop and spring shackle) are available @ £49 inc vat.
Note that it is very important that a stop is used to maximise the safety and reliability of this method of anchor recovery.
The stop serves the purpose of keeping the buoy approx 1.5 boat lengths in front of the bow this gives good vision and plenty of distance to steer the boat at the start of the manoeuvre.
Without a stop fitted, the buoy ends up under the bow where it cannot easily be seen by the skipper.
This can result in some difficulty in ensuring that the rope stays well clear of the propeller during the start of the manoeuvre.
The buoy also indicates to passing ships that you are at anchor.
Some alternative retrieval systems available, supply a complex detachable ring that cannot use a stop - This is contrary to our safe practice advice.
Furthermore, a detachable rig is not advisable we advise keeping the buoy, ring and the stop installed at all times that the anchor is down.
It is then immediately ready for use, indicates that you are at anchor and avoids the need to clip it on when you need it.